African woman European standards

Wangechi Mutu - Kenyan artistFor the past few years I’ve been reading a lot about a talented Kenyan-born artist named Wangechi Mutu. Ms Mutu’s art “explores the contradictions of female and cultural identity and makes reference to colonial history, contemporary African politics and the international fashion industry”.

Having seen images of her work I can see what all the fuss is about. At first the images are intentionally awkward and grotesque; taking a closer look you see a butt here, an eye there, a headline somewhere else, which points to the deeper imagery. Piecing together magazine imagery with painted surfaces and found materials Wangechi Mutu is able to create satirical scenes of her take on “a European preference to physique that has been inflicted on and adapted by Africans, resulting in both social hierarchy and genocide”. Still in her early 30’s Ms. Mutu is heralded one of the best young artists. Coming from a solo show at the San Francisco MoMA, Wangechi Mutu’s works will go on display May 12 – June 17, 2006 at the Sikkema Jenkins & Co gallery and at Salon 94 May 21 – July 7, 2006.

African designers go global

SaraAbera1.jpgThe International Herald Tribune published a good article about a new generation of enterprising African artisans who are creating cosmopolitan designs referencing Africana. The article highlights Ethiopian designer Sara Abera and Kenyan Julia Doig who has been successful in redesigning the kikoi, a traditional Kenyan wrap, for the global market.

The article makes a good point about how African brands can compete in the global design market using heritage and local craftsmanship as a selling point. This is a good point considering most African countries cannot compete with Asia when it comes to providing cheap, skilled labor and an robust industrial production. Popular apparel lines are further solidifying this point by looking to African craftsmen for just that. Premium denim line PRPS promotes it’s use of African cotton in it’s $200+ jeans, while Edun, founded by Ali Hewson (wife of U2’s Bono) and denim designer Rogan Gregory, proudly publicizes it’s use of family-run factories in South America and Africa for production of its collection which is sold at stores such as Saks Fifth Avenue and Fred Segal.