African designers gamble at Magic Las Vegas

African Pavilion Sourcing at Magic Las VegasLast August while in Las Vegas for a mini vacation with the family, being the workaholic I am, I squeezed in a visit to to Magic and it’s satellite tradeshows, Project and Pool. For those who have never attended the Magic event, basically it’s a few days of high octane buying and selling of apparel of all levels. The tradeshow is possibly the biggest and most known in the world and attracts everyone involved in the apparel industry. Though Magic is primarily organized as a meeting place for apparel companies and buyers, it has become a place for everyone to flex their brand muscle and get attention by outdoing each other. Magic is the main show held at the Las Vegas Convention center while the two smaller more specialized shows, Project and Pool take place at different venues in the surrounding area. I can’t describe the hustling that takes place at Magic. Because Magic attracts EVERYONE from celebrities, who are usually endorsing a clothing line, to magazine publishers and editors, for that week Las Vegas becomes a hustler’s heaven. And African companies are getting hip to the opportunities at Magic. In the short time I had to see all the exhibitors, I made sure to go over to the DESIGN South Africa area, a first-time collection of 10 South African fashion houses who, sponsored by the South African government, had been chosen to make the trip to exhibit their offerings to the international buyers. I got into a good conversation with Themba Mngomezulu of the Darkie label about design, African identity and breaking into the US market. Darkie is a popular label in South Africa and Themba has been doing his thing on the fashion scene for a while. I was happy to talk to him and see that African designers are making an organized effort to compete outside of their borders.

Design South Africa at Magic Las VegasThe Fall 2007 season of Magic started yesterday in Las Vegas and this season there’s an African Pavilion organized by Eastern and Central Africa Trade Hub and West Africa Trade Hubs. The area will be featuring various African companies “with the relevant strategies and insights” who have been chosen to get assistance in penetrating the American market. Unfortunately I will not be on the scene to report about their efforts for two reasons. The first reason is Las Vegas will be overrun with posers and groupies this week with Magic and NBA All Star Week taking place at the same time; I can’t take it! The second reason is, while the few days can gain a clothing line like mine unparalleled exposure, Magic is a budget buster which doesn’t fit my current business strategy. With costs ranging from $2500+ just to rent a booth space, it can be a costly lesson to learn if your company is not structured to capitalize on the exposure. Magic brings buyers from all over the world who are always eager to stock new brands. The reason for going to Magic from a designers perspective is to get orders and you are almost guaranteed to get some good ones. But I learned from attending a smaller tradeshow in Miami last year that getting sizable orders can actually kill your business. As a good friend of mine said “if you are building a house and you want it to last, you need to start with a solid foundation and use the right materials” (translation: longevity is based on patience and strategy). The apparel industry is an especially difficult one to succeed in. People go out of business everyday, and one of the main reasons is they grow too fast. Many people get into business for the fame and notoriety and fail to pay attention to the business part. Yes, the fashion business has some nice perks, but if you get caught up in the hype it’ll die just as fast as it lived. Lack of proper financing, partner disagreements, and absence of adequate apparel business knowledge constantly cause apparel companies to go out of business; and many times it can be avoided. When a company like Cloak has to close down, then you know there’s more to fashion than champagne and models. With that being said, I hope the African companies taking part in this season’s Magic tradeshow have the structure in place to deal with the possible instant success. While we must start competing at some point we should also try to set our own pace for growth. The American market has eluded numerous foreign brands. I’m lucky to have started here, but I think I’ll take my time and grow.

More about the African Pavilion and African Sourcing at Magic:

Discover the Magic of Africa
Following from a Hub sponsored workshop to provide Kenyan apparel firms with the relevant strategies and insights for exhibiting their wares at the Sourcing at MAGIC apparel trade show and that will assist them in penetrating the lucrative $180 Billion U.S apparel market, it was highlighted that for maximum impact at MAGIC, it would be important for participants from the region work together. In view of this, the ECA and West Africa Trade Hubs are working together to set up an ‘African Pavilion’ at the show. The Pavilion will showcase over 30 companies from 10 countries in Africa. The ECA Hub is sponsoring 9 companies from Kenya, Uganda, Madagascar and Ethiopia to the show which will be held in Las Vegas, Nevada in February 2007.

SEMINAR
Africa Sourcing Opportunities and Challenges

Date: Thursday February 15, 2007
Start Time: 4:00 PM
End Time: 5:00 PM
Location: South Hall, First Level, Room MS116
Panelist
Julie Hughes , Sr. Vice-President of International Trade, USA-ITA
Steve Jesseph , President/CEO, Worldwide Responsible Apparel Production
Belinda Edmonds , Cool Ideas, EDUN
Florie Liser , Assistant US Trade Representative for Africa
Info: Africa represents new opportunities for sourcing directors in light of the various free trade agreements currently in place and allowing for duty and quota free access. The continent also represents challenges to those who source in the region. Join our panel of experts and discover the possibilities.

African Hip-Hop in LA

For all those in LA this week make sure you check out the Pan African Film Festival which opened on February 8th and will run unil February 19th. In it’s 15th year, the festival is the largest international black film festival in the United States. While you’re getting in all your African films make sure to check out two of my partners Saba Saba aka Krazy Native (Uganda), and Wanlov the Kubolor (Ghana) as they bring their versions of African hip-hop to the event. Check out the flyer:

Saba Saba and Wanlov at  Pan African Film Festival

I made it through! Fashion Week round-up

Designers for Darfur dressSo, I survived another fashion week with very little scrapes and bruises. As usual the week was hectic. Here are my observations:

• Kofi-ism #1: Never tell a model she’s sweating. Models need to be complemented only. Whatever!
• Kofi-ism #2: The only people worse off than uninvited fashion guests are the photo and video people”.
• Kofi-ism #3: Fashion is going through a black out period. Black/African models, unless Baby Phat hires you , you’re f**ked.
• Kofi-ism #4: Fashion week is over run by spectators who have no purpose but to eat, drink and be merry. If you’re not working at fashion week, please stay home. You’re killing the vibe.
• Kofi-ism #5: The days of goodie bags are over. See #4 for the reason why.
• Kofi-ism #6: There are way too many shows going on in the week. They need to be consolidated and staged in closer proximity.

Highlights of the week included Diesel’s retro punk show (Fresh!), Doo Ri’s excellently crafted dresses (I need to learn to sew like yesterday!), and Jackie Rogers’ show at Scores (Yeah baby!)

On the last day , with the last once of energy left, I left Tommy Hilfiger and walked uptown to attend the Designers for Darfur event. While the event got mixed reviews by the press, I was content with the way it turned out. Malcolm Harris and Lydia Hearst took on a huge responsibility in trying to put together this event and I think they deserve credit for that. One of the problems with scheduling a show to close out fashion week is that most people are exhausted by the last day and just ready to put the week behind them. While there weren’t as many celebrities at the event, the event did make a statement though not a huge one. The clothing was great and the vibe was on point. Though it could have been better planned to guarantee certain people be involved, I don’t share the NY Post’s Danica Lo’s opinion that it was a failure. The Designers for Darfur event reflected the general theme of the whole fashion week. Not many big name celebrities or industry vets even at the big name designer shows, a whole bunch of fans getting in the way, and shows running late and too close together.

kofi-at-hilfiger2.jpg
Tommy Hilfiger had a dope stage

Save Darfur, Steve Madden, Malcolm Harris, Lydia Hearst
Organizers: SaveDarfur.org, Steve Madden, Malcolm Harris, Lydia Hearst

Steve madden with MTV
Steve Madden interviewing with MTV

Turkish designer Rabia
Turkish designer Rabia

Designers for Darfur banner
Designers for Darfur banner

Designers for Darfur poster
Designers for Darfur poster

Kofi tired after fashion week
1 AM. I’m exhausted!

Last week in African Style 2/3 – 2/9/07

• From child soldier to rock star.

• West African ‘Idol’ holds auditions.

• Business schools put Africa on the curriculum.

• ‘AFRICA UNITE’ to debut at New York African Film Festival

• Black History Month in Europe.

• The Impact of Immigrant Entrepreneurs.

• Whoopi Golberg, please come home to West Africa.

• Oprah’s 1-hour special about South Africa girls school experience.

• Mia Farrow travels to Africa for UNICEF

Vote for Wanlov

Wanlov in Bing is Dead t-shirtBack in 2004 I organized a party to celebrate the launch my Spring/Summer 2004 collection. The collection was based around the Nigerian singer/Afro-beat originator Fela Kuti, an innovative musician who dared to re-invent African song. My launch party, called “Redefining African Style”, featured some upcoming African musicians who I felt were creating a new sound which also re-defined what African music was today. One of those artists was a fellow Ghanaian Wanlov The Kubolor. While I hadn’t seem him perform before, I was a fan of his music and was honored to have him perform as a special guest. Wanlov’s performance was one of the highlights of the Redefining African Style party and still stands out in the minds of many attendees. Wanlov’s “Never Die”(produced by Kweku Ananse of Pidgen Music) is now a finalist in the International Songwriting Competition finals. The finalists were chosen out of almost 15,000 submissions from 88 countries worldwide. Read Wanlov’s recent interview in The African magazine and watch the video below to see him performing his song “In Ghana” wearing his “Bling is Dead” t-shirt at last years “Bling & Blood” concert. You’ll agree that the guy’s got skills. Vote for Wanlov, one of Africa’s upcoming young innovators.

Darfur at NY Fashion Week

Mal Sirah Designers for DarfurSo I finalized my Fashion Week schedule the other day and, while I won’t be showing my clothing line this season, I am excited about the shows I’ll be attending. The week will definitely be an exciting one, as I am scheduled to work with some wonderful mens and womens designers. One show that I’m looking forward to attending though is the Designers for Darfur show taking place on Friday February 9th. Designers For Darfur, was founded in 2007 by designer Malcolm Harris of Mal Sirrah and model Lydia Hearst-Shaw (One Model Management) in association with Fashion Television and Steve Madden, Inc. The event is aimed to raise funds and awareness on behalf of the Save Darfur Coalition. The organizers have gotten a exciting list of designers to create one complete ensemble in Red, Yellow, Green or Black (or any combination of these symbolic colors of Africa) to be featured in the fashion show at Roseland Ballroom. Confirmed participating designers are Chado Ralph Rucci , Steve Madden , Donna Karan , Catherine Malandrino , Rachel Roy, J. Mendel, Michael Kors, Naeem Kahn, Alice & Olivia, Carlos Miele, Joseph Abboud, Marc Bouwer, Nanette Lepore, Carmen Marc Valvo, and Mal Sirrah among others. And those are just the designers. Oprah Winfrey, Joss Stone, Roberto Cavalli, Kanye West, Mia Farrow, Maria Bello, Don Cheadle, and Russell Simmons, are scheduled to attend; but the big question is will George Clooney, a serious advocate for US intervention in Darfur, make an appearance? I’ll let you know. Kudos to the organizers for closing out the week on a good note.

African blogger issues

Recently, I received a nice message from fellow blogger Maryam in Morocco and ventured over to her site. She has a great blog through which she shares with readers the beauty of her experiences in Morocco. For those who aren’t aware, Maryam is nominated in the 7th Annual Bloggies, and deservedly so. The problem though, as White African mentioned, is that both Maryam and Dotty Rhino are nominated in a category for “Best African or Middle Eastern Weblog”. Since when could the whole of Africa be lumped in with the Middle East. Stuff like this is quite depressing. I know African bloggers are not so high profile but anyone who reads Global Voices knows there are enough of us to warrant our own category. I guess we still have a lot of work to do. Go and vote for the African bloggers. Hopefully we’ll get our own category next year.

Vh1, Spike Lee, Oprah find African ancestry

Spike Lee at Oprah's eventToday is February 1st and the beginning of Black History month here in the US. In the past I haven’t really followed the events which take place for Black History month because it had turned into just a part of big business’ marketing calendar. But this year Black History Month might turn out to be worth noting for both Africans and African-Americans. Vh1 is leading the pack with it’s debut of a 30-seond spot directed by director Spike Lee encouraging African-Americans to scientifically determine their African lineage.

The spot which debuts today (February 1st) on the VH1 soul channel will feature several African-Americans initially mentioning the American cities that they are from. The people are then featured again, holding swabs and naming the African region that their ancestors are from. The spot then encourages viewers to “take pride in their original homes during Black History Month”. The campaign feature DNA-based ancestry tests performed by African Ancestry, Inc., a company that uses swabbed DNA to genetically determine where in Africa a person’s African ancestors came from. DNA ancestry tests have gained mainstream popularity particularly through the efforts of Dr. Henry Louis Gates, Jr’s four-part PBS series “African American Lives,” which used DNA to trace the roots of Oprah Winfrey, Chris Tucker and other prominent African Americans all the way from slave plantations to the shores of Africa. Dr. Gates, a professor who heads Harvard’s Afro-American Studies program, also hosted another recent PBS special centered around tracing Oprah Winfrey’s genealogy and is releasing a book and DVD “Finding Oprah’s Roots — Finding Your Own”.

VH1 will also be launching a new music video show “One Planet. One Soul” beginning Sunday, February 4 showcasing soul artists from the U.K., Africa, Canada, Australia, including Akon, K’Naan, and Rhian Benson. “One Planet. One Soul” will air every Sunday at 10:00 am, 6:00 pm and 2:00 am.

Oprah Winfrey and Henry Louis Gates discover African roots