It’s that time of year again when any and every person in the fashion industry turns their attention to the tents at Bryant Park for New York Fashion Week. As a veteran of the chaos that descends upon an already chaotic New York City, I too have begun to feel the anticipation of what the Fall 2007 season will bring. For those of us who work in some capacity in the fashion industry it’s a week of constant excitement and anxiety all in one. Beyond the flashing bulbs of the press and celebrities there are a herd of organizers who bear the brunt of making sure the shows go on without a hitch. And with that pressure comes attitudes and personalities which continually make things difficult. From pretentious publicists, to over zealous security guards, to the narcissistic creatives, fashion week is never without it’s drama. But it’s those same personalities which make it all worth it in the end. Those personalities (and the talent behind it) keep you on your toes and fuel the press which in turn sells products which employ us the following season. Now we can all agree that some of the drama is unwarranted, but that’s what makes fashion , well, fashion. It’s the over the top events that create the fantasy which we all buy into when we consider shelling out $500 for a pair of designer shades (well I wouldn’t, but you get what I mean). Now don’t get me wrong, that’s not all there is behind the scenes. As much as there are trying people involved, there are a slew of people who are there to work and support each other to create a healthy industry. Every season I meet amazing people who are a piece of the puzzle needed to make a show or collection successful. Fashion week is always full of ups and downs and each season we all dread it, but as soon as it’s over we wish it weren’t. It’s an overload of creative energy and inspiration that can’t be matched. For a week every six months, we all come together to create an event which influences many other industries throughout the world. As much as fashion week won’t end world hunger, it’s a crucial element behind numerous people who will. And it’s seeing master designers like Giorgio Armani, Diane Von Furstenburg, and Chado Ralph Rucci at work which has drawn me every six months for the last 3 years to the tents at Bryant Park. Who needs school when you can learn from the best when they’re at their most vulnerable. Here’s to all those Africans, from models to tailors to publicists to security guards, making it happen so those masters can shine.
Oprah leads African girls to success
Over the holidays the media was abuzz when Oprah Winfrey opened her school for girls in South Africa. No stranger to charitable endeavors, this one however struck a nerve with all kinds of people. While many saw the effort as a positive one, others questioned the racial mix of the school and why Oprah chose Africa instead of the USA. I’m on Oprah’s side for this one. Out of all the celebrity Africa efforts Oprah has been one of those who has properly used her celebrity status to focus on the true issues. From her support of Bono’s Product RED to her feature on blood diamonds, she’s used her talent to focus on the issue at hand though it’s been with mixed reviews. I think the school for girls is a good idea which is sure to be duplicated by other celebrities. For all the criticism she has received, I think this is one move that deserves some recognition. And it surely sets the pace for Africa initiatives in 2007.
Armani’s RED makes Kate Moss black for your green
Last thursday, Giorgio Armani edited the british newspaper The Independent as part of his involvement with Project RED. As the second issue in the RED series – the first was edited by Bono- the newspaper took a look at issues which are of concern to those seeking to help Africa. While the newspaper had some good articles about “Africa’s gifts to the world” from art to science, celebrity weigh-ins on Africa’s problems, and African Women’s rights, those were all overshadowed by the cover picture of a black-faced Kate Moss. Major backlash ensued at yet another attempt to connect Africans to white celebrities and in this case the fashion world. You would think that after the backlash over the Gwyneth Paltrow “I am African” ad Mr. Armani would have paid special care to provide a better context for the image and not just rely on the resurrected supermodel’s notoriety.
A major part of the failure of such campaigns is the media not realizing that today’s consumer has become smarter and is exposed to a lot more global messages than before. It’s true that we’re still enamored with celebrity and for the most part are still sleep when it comes to politics, but with advertising, even the sheep think of themselves as wolves. The images and associations don’t carry the same weight they used to because they have not been defined in the new society. With reality TV and the internet we are more independent in our information gathering. Today’s consumer is exposed to a lot more, and has new points of references. As Julie of Coutorture proved in her attempts at covering New York Fashion Week, the old media is out of touch with the rise and needs of the new breed of consumers and they prove this constantly with images such as the one on The Independent. While many charities are seeking to involve the public in their causes they are still employing the old media communicate with a new consumer who rebels against it. Some would say that the controversy from both the Kate Moss and Gwyneth Paltrow images helped to bring attention to the causes, but I would argue that most people could not tell you what issues those images were trying to bring to light. The old media has not done it’s homework on what Africa means to the new consumers. And like a parent, the old media’s message gets lost in it’s arrogance.
Gwyneth Paltrow declares “I am African like David Bowie”.
As I was perusing the new Fashion Rocks Magazine during my lunch the other day. I stumbled upon this ad of Gwyneth Paltrow, actress/wife of Bono’s humanitarian heir Chris Martin. I must say I was quite shocked. I still haven’t decided if it was a good or bad shock but a shock nevertheless. As someone who actually is African, I am excited to see Alicia Keys’ Keep A Child Alive organization doing whatever it takes to push the envelope and make people realize the seriousness of the African AIDS epidemic. On the other hand I get the feeling there is the usual subconscious pandering which comes from many “humanitarians” who see themselves as saviors of poor helpless Africans. On the previous page of the magazine is a similar ad with David Bowie which seems to be less offensive on sight. The mixed feelings which the Gwyneth Paltrow ad is sure to get will no doubt come because she has been quite private causing the media to create an image of her as an All-American girl to satisfy the public’s need for more information. Paired with her marriage to Chris Martin of Cold Play, her public image becomes even more confusing. While Ms Paltrow might genuinely have a humanitarian streak the ad ends up getting the wrong reactions by the confused American public. We all know David Bowie to be a cause conscious celebrity and the fact that he is married to another humanitarian , supermodel Iman, solidifies his African-ness in our eyes. This should be a lesson to Gwyneth Paltrow and all other celebrities who want to keep their private lives private. You can’t rely on your celebrity to validate your cause if we don’t know who you really are. Thanks for trying though.
Western movies get African treatment
The Christian Science Monitor writes about the emergence of video jockeys (veejays) in Uganda. Emerging out of the phenomenon of homegrown video hall, the veejays act as cultural translators, providing colorful “voiceovers” of Western Movies for the native population. The veejays have gained such popularity as to become local celebrities. The unique way each veejay translates the films have even spawned genre specialists, with some being known for action movies and others for romantic comedies. This veejaying method lends creative license tot the “interpreter” with many choosing entertainment of their audience over accuracy. It’s an interesting article about how some African communities are customizing foreign movies for their market allowing them to earn a living and tap into their creative spirit.