Vanity Fair’s Africa issue debuts

Iman Alicia Keys Vanity FairJune07coverJayZ George Clooney Vanity FairJune07cover

The Bono-edited July 2007 issue of Vanity Fair, dubbed the “Africa issue”, has hit stands. What an issue this is. With 20 covers photographed by Vanity Fair’s go-to photographer, Annie Leibovitz , and insight on Africa from EVERYONE from Jay-Z, Iman, Djimon Hounsou, Desmond Tutu, Chris Rock, Madonna, Barack Obama, and Queen Rania of Jordan among others, this issue is a great effort on the part of Vanity Fair. Get a copy, read the articles, and let me know your views. Props to YG for the heads up and images.

As you read this—historic—issue of Vanity Fair, the Global Fund is benefiting, but that’s not the main reason we kidnapped this publication’s extraordinary photographers and storytellers. We needed help in describing the continent of Africa as an opportunity, as an adventure, not a burden. Our habit—and we have to kick it—is to reduce this mesmerizing, entrepreneurial, dynamic continent of 53 diverse countries to a hopeless deathbed of war, disease, and corruption. Binyavanga Wainaina’s piece on Kenya is an eye- and mind-opener. From here, what’s needed is a leg up, not a handout. Targeted debt cancellation and aid mean 20 million more African kids are in school, 1.3 million Africans are on lifesaving drugs. Amazing. -from Bono’s guest editor’s letter

Dior puts a little soul in it’s Marrakech Express

Alek Wek on Dior Cruise 2008 NYC runway Alek Wek's shoes on Dior Cruise 2008 NYC runway

On Monday evening, designer John Galliano showed his Christian Dior Cruise 2008 collection in New York City. Going into the event I expected the normal couture runway spectacle, including the absence of anything or anyone African (or black). I was delighted to see though that Galliano did his part to at least acknowledge the diversity of the times by including Alek Wek and “it girl” Chanel Iman. While the collection and scenery channeled the 60’s-era, the Parisian fashion house designs and choice of music impressed me with it’s updated view of what luxury lifestyle is today. While the inclusion of only two ethnic models in a show themed “Marrakech Express” is not the best case scenario (hellooo! Moroccans have a unique African culture), I am happy to see that the trends I observed in last season’s shows is not catching on throughout the industry. Hopefully more African models can soon get a chance to lend their authenticity to couture runway shows. Ethiopian supermodel Liya Kabede was also in attendance.

New magazine changing image of African women

Kitu Kizuri MagI’m an avid reader of publications both online and offline, so when I came across this new African women’s magazine called Kitu Kizuri at Barnes and Noble, I was intrigued. Having already been in contact with the editor for a feature on myself and Annansi Clothing Co. in the “American Dreams” section, I kind of had an idea what the magazine was about anyway. But, when I finally found a copy hidden in the women’s interest section, I was impressed. While I’m sure there are other African women’s magazines available, I felt that Kitu Kizuri was on point with it’s focus and content. Being an African man, I might not be in the target market, but the articles gave me a good glimpse of what is on African women’s minds. Just the kind of insight I need for when I’m designing my upcoming women’s collection. Make sure you check out the magazine and SUBSCRIBE!! It’s only $20 per year and I’m sure you’ll agree that we need more magazines like this one to help shape a new African image. Congrats on the launch guys.

Apple’s iPhone meaningless to a Masai herdsman

Masai on cellphoneYesterday Apple debuted another revolutionary product, the iPhone. It has everything anyone would need in a phone. That is unless you’re one of Kenya’s Masai herdsmen. Psfk pointed me to a great article and short film by Paul Mason on how the mobile phone industry is having an enormous economic and social impact in Africa. Watching Paul Mason’s short film, I can’t help but draw a comparison between the US mobile phone market and the African one. One of the main issues that has come up in the analysis of the iPhone’s debut is that it’s exclusive to Cingular wireless – for now. Nussbaum at Business Week mentions that if Apple was really trying to revolutionize the US cellular market they would create an ecosystem by partnering with other carriers. The thing is though Apple has taken a stance by focusing on what mobile consumers have said they need, not what mobile carriers think users want. The mobile industry in the US is plagued by warring providers who each , in the name of differentiation, coninue to develop products that only satisfy the users’ wnats, not their needs. Apple “listens” to the people it develops products for and in doing so it has a track record of developing products that address the the users’ needs. If more African help efforts used Apple’s strategy, maybe their successes can mirror Apples.

The US consumer is spoiled by having access to too many options. Though there is are definite pluses to that (competition, innovation, entrepreneurship, choice), the down side is that we send mixed messages about what we want and we really need. Combine that with our self-serving opinion that the whole world shares our values, needs, and wants and you get a misplaced sense of priorities. Oprah said it best in her Newsweek interview, “If you ask the (American) kids what they want or need, they will say an iPod or some sneakers. In South Africa, they don’t ask for money or toys. They ask for uniforms so they can go to school.” This statement shines some light on the problem many US-based efforts to help Africa usually run into. Many individuals and organizations put a lot of effort in what they determine Africa needs which only reflects what they want themselves would want for those Africans. The BBC report shows how the mobile industry in Africa has grown because it focuses on what the people need. A Masai woman uses a mobile phone to check on her cattle and because there is little power in her village she uses solar-powered charger to recharge the phone. Both the phone and the solar recharger are beneficial because they start with the need of the user and work from there. The development of the “send money” function in the Kenyan mobile industry is another illustration of innovation according to the person’s needs. Maybe if more African assistance efforts focused on the needs of African people and worked in partnership with them, Africa could one day get to the point where there are opportunities to cater to the wants. The iPhone is revolutionary because it focuses on what people need at the moment; that is different from what the US mobile market has come to build it’s industry on. Nothing but fleeting wants.

African diamond facts according to Russell Simmons

Russell Simmons at his African diamonds press conference in New YorkAs I mentioned, yesterday I attended Russell Simmons’ press conference to reveal the results of his fact-finding Africa mission. In attendance was Russell Simmons, Dr. Ben Chavis, Kimora Lee Simmons (Russell insisted she’s still his wife), Rev. Run(Run DMC), the Dipset’s “capo” Jim Jones (again I say, WTF does he have to do with diamonds beside speaking ignorantly about it? update: Jim Jones quote below), actor Jeffrey Wright (said to be doing work in Sierra Leone), Scott Rauch (president of Simmons Jewelry Company), and a bunch of DeBeers and World Diamond Council people. I must admit I was still skeptical about the purpose of the trip and what I felt the results would be. From the video released last thursday, I began to have some hopes about the degree to which Russell was going to find the facts and re-enforce my image of him as the godfather/guru extraordinare of our hip hop generation. I went into the conference with an open mind, and looking to hear from Simmons himself that the mission was a successful one. Ultimately I was disappointed by the whole event.

While news sources report about Simmons’ Green Initiative, and (get this) Diamond Empowerment Fund (DEF) , which will “raise money for the development and empowerment of people and communities in Africa where diamonds ar a natural resource”, one key point resounding throughout the press conference was, why didn’t Russell’s entourage visit the countries which are at the heart of the blood diamond debate. As a representative of Global Witness and another reporter (I think she was from AOL Black voices) mentioned, the controversy surrounding diamonds relates more directly to countries like Sierra Leone, Angola, Liberia, and Ivory Coast, none of which were visited by Simmons delegation. Instead the focus of the conference and the trip was on Botswana, South Africa, and Mozambique, three countries which, despite reports of displacement of Native Bushmen in Botswana, have very little to do with the conflict diamonds controversy. It’s like saying there’s no racism in America and pointing to Condoleza Rice as an example. Now, some people would say that these three countries are part of the discussion since their diamond production process is a “role-model” for other diamond producing African countries, but there are still many faults even with that. During his short speech a representative from the Debswana Diamond Company, was reminded by Simmons to disclose to the press that the company at the heart of the “successful” diamond mining in Botswana was a 50/50 ownership with DeBeers, the primary company accused of profiting from the blood diamond trade. Simmons had mentioned earlier in the conference that 85% of Botswana’s profits go back to the people of Botswana for education, AIDS treatment, general health insurance and a good portion of the profits from his Simmons Jewelry Company would be re-directed to “help Africans”. But the question kept coming up; why didn’t the delegation leave the confines of the structured Botswana tour and venture into even the smaller towns within the country where reports of exploitation and human rights abuse were coming from. Couple that with the fact that the Simmons’ DEF fund contribution will go to the same Botswana that they claim is so successful in providing for it’s people and you can see why I’m not convinced.

While I think Simmons, and Chavis can do a great deal of good in Africa, my main concern is with the timing of the whole thing. With all the stories going around and reports of the diamond industry spending $15 million on preemptive measures in regards to the effect of the Blood Diamond movie, I can’t believe that Simmons got himself in the middle of this. True, he has a business to run, AND Amnesty International approached him first, but at least he could have attempted to make the “fact-finding” mission look impartial. Everything about the whole mission pointed to a spin campaign on the part of the diamond industry, to the point where a representative from the World Diamond council got up to make a speech about how they are “appreciative of the attention” the movie has brought on their efforts with the Kimberley Process. Even Russell mentioned that he was happy that Leonardo DiCaprio was talking of not boycotting diamonds. As I exited the press conference I ran into the President of Botswana, Festus Mogae, who had reportedly just taped an interview for the Charlie Rose Show which will air tonight on PBS. Russell, I still have faith in you. Do something to make it right.

Quotes from the conference:
• Russell Simmons:
“My (only) agenda is to uplift African people … and all people”
“(I want to ) help strengthen the Kimberley Process”
“Diamonds empower Africans”

• Dr. Ben Chavis:
“The diamond industry promotes good in Africa”
“(I encourage the media to) get the opinion of people who live and work in Africa”
“…most disturbing thing to me (from the trip) was seeing that the reality (of the African diamond situation) was not being covered (by the media)”

• Scott Rauch
“This continent needs help”

• Sheila Khama (De Beers Botswana Chief Executive)
“Please cut us some slack. A lot of good has happened in Botswana because of diamonds.”

update
• Jim Jones
“As rappers we spend tens of millions of dollars a year on jewelry alone. Not just me myself, I’m talking about as a general effort. It’s a service that goes back to the African people that’s been mining all the diamonds that we wear. We should learn about purchasing from them, as opposed to just giving everybody our money because we like what we see.” source

Duro Olowu site launches (sort of)

Duro OlowuFor serious fashionistas owning a Duro Olowu dress is a true status symbol. Since winning the British Fashion Awards in November and being “discovered” by Vogue’s Sally Singer and Julie Gilhart, of Barneys, the Nigerian designer can’t seem to keep his dresses on the racks at Barneys and other high-end retailers. Models, actresses, and socialites can’t seem to get enough of his Empire-waisted, kimono-sleeved dresses. Offered in various limited edition combinations of vintage and modern ethnic prints, the 1970’s Nigerian and Jamaican-inspired dresses are ultra wearable and highly original. If you can’t get to his shop OG2 on Portobello Road in London,, check out the new site for stockists and get yours before it sells out again.